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The floodlit waterhole at Okaukuejo camp is an excellent place to spot wildlife. Richard even saw the critically endangered black rhino taking a drink here and lots of elephant and antelope.

A cheetah started stalking a zebra at one of the waterholes by staying pressed flat to the ground and then accelerating to top speed in a matter of seconds. The zebra managed to get away this time.

Saw all the scavengers in action on a recent springbok kill that a cheetah had pulled down. First the hyenas and then when their stomachs were bulging they left to be replaced by the jackals who made way for the vultures until there was nothing left. It's a very efficient and speedy cleanup system.

Giant termite mounds dot the landscape and the empty ones are often inhabited by a family of mongoose. Also saw a beautiful male lion standing next to a copse of trees preening himself.

Etosha Pan Tips & Recommendations:

• The park rules forbid you from leaving your vehicle at any time once you are out of the fenced in camp, so be prepared to spend a long period of time in your vehicle. Unless of course, the call of nature becomes too strong and you are still a long way from the camp.

• Traffic jams in Etosha are not really a problem you are going to have to deal with. The area is so large that everybody seems to disappear into the landscape. You might find a group of vehicles at the waterholes but most of the time you will be on your own even when you spot a big cat, which is definitely not the case in other African National parks.