Tsavo National Park Travel Diary
Day 1
I never realised the
roads between Mombasa and Nairobi would be this bumpy.
Only the three of us – I, my
wife and our guide travelling towards Tsavo East where we entered the Buchuma
Gate, a relief really after a three hour slog over treacherous grounds.
At last we could see or
possibly spot some wildlife (get the camera and camcorder ready).
The word
must have got around about our visit - not a single sighting of even the lonely
gazelle for the first couple of miles … even that was worth a picture and a
smile. My wife setting up the camcorder – getting ready for the first filming
of whatever came along, either being a herd of elephants crossing the road or
even just a zebra walking across the savannah – you could see her excitement
written all over her face.
Our driver
now becoming more and more anxious at not seeing anything of interest to us, you
could see the awareness whilst manoeuvring the vehicle between the ruts in the
rough track, trying to continue the smoothest of road ahead, not always
possible.
Driving
along in anticipation of seeing anything really, me with my camera at hand and
my wife eagerly waiting for a glimpse of something to film, when suddenly the
driver shouted, “Over there!” as he pointed a finger to his left and both our
heads immediately turned, hopeful to catch sight of something of interest.
In the
distance a mother giraffe and baby were walking through the dense bush with not
a care in the world. We tried to proceed closer to get the first close-up, only
to scare it away and unfortunately only getting a picture of the back end
galloping back into the bush. Damn, I thought, a good photo opportunity gone
begging.
Elephants
Crossing the Road
On we continued with the
excitement of seeing more of the same, looking both skywards and into the
distance (there’s some amazing bird life out there as well). We seemed to be
coming into contact with a large variety by now, with a herd of elephants in the
distance and a mix of zebra and gazelle on the other just grazing together, with
not a care in the world.
My first real photo
opportunity came as we drove in as close as possible to get the ideal shot. On
we drove until the driver brought the vehicle to a stop, pointing to a herd of
elephants proceeding down the right hand side of us, slightly disturbed by our
abrupt action, and then continuing their walk. The driver explaining his
actions and the actions of the elephants, to our amazement.
We quickly took aim at what
was an amazing sight of a family (plus granddad and grandma) of elephants
crossing the road at no more than 200 yards from us – this was a beautiful
sight! We gingerly crept past without disturbing too much. The odd marabou
stork appeared here and there just off the track, an impressive bird to say the
least. We also spotted other varieties of bird, the much smaller kind (too far
away to recognise).
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Ngutuni Lodge |
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We
soon approached the exit to the safari to proceed towards our lodge for the
night stay (Ngutuni Lodge).
A very
pleasant residence of medium to high class, overlooking a waterhole.
Considering we were the only residents at the time, we were treated with the
full attention, to our every need.
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The
facilities were as said above with a small shop inside the grounds selling
gifts. The time that we were there, we wouldn’t change anything really.
We had a
very relaxing and enjoyable time looking at the occasional warthog visiting the
waterhole and a secretary bird flying by, sometimes stopping for a drink –
sociable bird.
A two hour safari drive
awaited us, good job for the absolutely brilliant weather – sun, blue skies.
Not seeing much more, the occasional herd of elephants or few giraffes passing
by, but the views almost compensated the rest of the afternoon.
During the end we came
across a small pride of lions lazily lying in the shade, resting after a kill,
ignoring our delicate advances in the vehicle to get the perfect shot. Our
driver climbs a different route back, looking back at many herds of elephant in
the distance and for once buffalo grazing – “Don’t get too close,” whispers the
driver.
We got back to the lodge
quite satisfied with our day. A table laid for two awaited us overlooking the
waterhole, maybe a chance to spot some wildlife passing by, or even stopping for
a drink, that would be a photo opportunity.
The food was served with all
the attention on us: a delicious three course meal in a delightful setting.
After a long day we settled down for the night.
A Lodge Built
on Stilts
Day 2
We
started with breakfast followed by the departure from the lodge.
We continued towards Tsavo
West where we eventually arrived at Salt Lick Safari Lodge, an absolutely
amazing sight: rooms on stilts connected with walkways-bridge.
The driver dropped us off
and departed, leaving me and my wife time to settle in. Taking in the amazing
structures of these buildings I had to reach for my camera.
We decided to have a coffee
upstairs overlooking the waterhole, only to notice two maribu slowly walking
about. My wife took out her camcorder and spotted a herd of zebra walking
towards the waterhole. Not much more was spotted really, the odd gazelle
walking by.
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It had a reputation on being
wetter on the west and no sooner had that thought passed, down it came for most
of the afternoon, we sat there just gazing at the bleak weather.
Mind you, the marabou didn’t
mind, they looked like two old wise men, hands behind their backs, walking up
and down, or just being marabou – standing still trying to forget the rain.
Lunch was
served to half of the restaurant, a pleasant three course menu which we
thoroughly enjoyed. By now four o’clock was creeping up on us, time to get
ready for our safari drive. |
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Salt Lick Lodge
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The King of the Jungle Cornered
We met our driver with
camera and camcorder in hand – feeling a bit optimistic really considering the
bleak day.
During a short drive the
driver suggested that we take down the top, so we could peer above for a better
view. By now the rain had eased off. Slowly we drove forward – sneaking up on
a herd of hartebeest, grazing quietly just ahead of us – a good shot. More
gazelle ahead – “blasé”, I told the driver to “drive on”, as he began to slow
down.
Again a herd of zebra
appeared moving away from us, then suddenly a change of direction with a reason
unbeknown to the three of us, then again a change of direction, we all thought
how very strange. The weather began to change for the worse again, so my wife
opened her umbrella. It was in full view to the outside but giving us shelter,
which was much more important to us. The driver stopped his vehicle to talk
with his passing friend – a ranger I think.
A look of excitement
overcame him as he spilled the good news that a male lion had been spotted.
That was the reason for the disturbance with the zebra. We back tracked and
followed the ranger only to be pointed to the exact spot of the lion – very
difficult to see in the undergrowth, but we spotted the king of the jungle
through camera and camcorder respectively.
The reason why the lion
cowered in the undergrowth was the fact of my dear wife opening the umbrella and
that being spotted by the lion, not knowing what this big black object was,
resulting in the actions of hiding. I got a relatively good shot of the head.
We moved on to spot impala,
baboon, eland, oryx, all getting our full attention of my camera. The time
surprisingly passed very slowly considering the amount of wildlife spotting we
were experiencing.
We arrived back at our
lodge, proceeded to our room and got ready for our evening meal, all the time
keeping an eye on the waterhole, on the off chance of seeing something of
interest. A light shone on the waterhole so guests could view any wildlife
willing to show their faces, but unfortunately not this time.
We helped ourselves to the
delicious buffet on offer, finished off with a coffee. We retired soon after.
Day 3
Had an early morning call at
05:00, breakfast at 05:30 to be away on a morning drive by 06:00.
We made our way towards Voi
Gate, the entrance into Tsavo East. The thought of going back to our
destination via Tsavo East really appealed to both of us and the driver seemed
quite happy to oblige. Again we saw the usual wildlife, most of the time
driving past without a second glance – “seen it before”.
I noticed a lonely elephant
wandering in the light bush, quite old with impressive tusks. The driver
pointed out the reason why and how often the other elephants would visit to make
sure it was o.k.; this explanation put a smile on our faces. The highway was
nearing and the wildlife getting more and more sparse, but never mind, we’d seen
our share of what we came here to see.
An experience never to be
forgotten – well not in mind at least. All the pictures I had taken had failed,
all five films – absolutely blank.
This is one of the reasons
I’d love to go back to Kenya to see the safari, I also intend to buy a new
digital camera rather than the manual one I used.
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